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The proportioning valve is not adjustable: It meters fluid through orifices. As for TSB's, gotta check with the dealer, (might wanna find a new dealer). The brake light coming on is a clue, and the proportioning valve can turn on the red brake light.
Master cylinder and proportioning valve specs are quite varied. I would recommend 1968-74 Javelin or similar disc master cylinder for best performance match available in power and manual flavors. Try with original junction block first. If rears lock up excessively, install an adjustable proportioning valve in the line going to the rear.
With this, you will need to get a 4 disc combo valve, or plumb in an adjustable proportioning valve in its place. Parts List Rotors Ford 1964-79 8”, 9” (5 on 4-1/2” bolt center – Mustang, Falcon, Cougar) 1991-94 Toyota Previa front rotor w/ rear drum option NAPA#48-86174, Wagner #BD125058, Raybestos #96174
Results are materially better than keeping the 15/16" cylinders and adding an adjustable proportioning valve. The 13/16" rear wheel cylinders are such an easy find because they're factory equipment on '90s Dakotas w/10" rear brakes on the A-Body 9" drum applications.
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2 PSI residual valve for the front disks. 10 PSI residual valve for the rear drums. No proportioning valve. The adjustment of the rear is somewhat critical, They cannot be setup too loose. Bleeding was done with a homemade pressure bleeder. A vacuum bleeder did not work for me on this system. This system is now 9 years old.